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I found the article here, but I'm copying the text over here in case it disappears.

 

It's true - home grown garlic is amazingly tasty, and so easy to grow!

 

Grow Your Own Garlic

Once you taste home-grown garlic, you won't be satisfied with supermarket varieties

Garlic isn’t hard to grow. In fact, growing garlic plants is almost ridiculously easy. It has a few important requirements that are easily met: decent soil, adequate moisture, and, of course, planting and harvesting at the right time.

When is the right time for planting garlic? Plant garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes in your area. You can fudge the planting time a little. I have planted as early as September (by mistake) and as late as Thanksgiving (to experiment) and have had decent crops. Roots will start to grow soon after you plant. Your aim is to get good root development before the plants go dormant. Green shoots may appear in the fall, which is fine.

 

6 easy steps for a bumper crop of garlic

 

1. Prepare the soil

To grow nice, big heads of garlic, you need loose, fertile soil. Loosen the soil with a digging fork, spread a 2- to 3-inch-deep layer of organic matter over the area, and dig it in. For organic matter, I use a well-aged mixture of compost, leaf mold, and aged rabbit manure. To avoid disease problems, don’t plant garlic in the same spot two years running. Prepare several shallow furrows in the soil that are 6 inches apart.

 

 

2. Choose your varieties

There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Hardnecks have cloves growing around a hard central stalk. This stalk forms a curling scape (or flower stem) on top, which many growers cut off to redirect energy to the bulb. Softneck garlics form more cloves, with big ones around the outside of the head and numerous small ones at the center. Softnecks also tend to keep longer once harvested than hardnecks. Break apart a large head of garlic, and plant only the biggest cloves. The bigger the clove, the greater the likelihood it will yield a nice, big head of garlic. Save the smaller cloves to use in the kitchen.

 
Hardneck garlic Hardneck garlic Photo/Illustration: Ruth Lively
Softneck garlic Softneck garlic Photo/Illustration: Ruth Lively
 
 

 

3. Plant a clove, get a head

To plant, place the cloves 4 inches apart in a furrow. Hold each clove pointed end up, and push it into the soil about 2 inches deep. After all the cloves are in the ground, smooth the soil surface using your fingers or a rake to fill in the holes, and water well. If you’re planting more than one variety, be sure to label each one clearly. I also make a map of my planting, in case the labels go astray. I wait to mulch for a month or more after planting to give the soil a chance to cool down. When it’s leaf-raking season, I put several inches of chopped leaves over the bed.

 
Photo/Illustration: Melissa Lucas

4. Fertilize and water

Top growth starts in earnest in spring, when the weather warms and the days lengthen. I fertilize twice with a solution of liquid kelp and fish emulsion: once, when the garlic has started growing strongly—about mid-April in my area—and, again, a month later. Garlic isn’t greedy for water, but it doesn’t like to dry out, either. When the soil feels dry an inch below the surface, it’s time to water. In mid- to late June, I stop watering. By that time, the garlic has sized up and the heads are starting to form cloves.

 
Photo/Illustration: Michelle Gervais

5. Time the harvest carefully

Harvest in late spring or early summer when the plants have five or six green leaves, with no more than one or two beginning to turn brown. Each green leaf represents a wrapper layer surrounding the head. During harvest, you’re liable to damage the outer layer. Later, while cleaning the heads, you’re apt to lose another one or two layers. Your goal is to end up with two or three tight, papery layers enclosing each bulb. To harvest, drive a garden fork beneath the plants (be careful not to damage the bulbs), gently pry them loose, and then pull them out. Shake off any excess soil, and lay the plants in a pile. As soon as you’ve finished harvesting, move the plants to an airy location that is protected from sun and rain. If you’re growing more than one variety, keep each variety separate and well labeled so that you know what’s what.

 
Photo/Illustration: Michelle Gervais

6. Cure, clean, and store the heads

To cure garlic in preparation for storage, hang the bare bulbs with their foliage in bundles or spread them out on a table or rack. You can begin eating them right away, but bulbs intended for storage must be cured.

After a few weeks of curing, it’s bulb-cleaning time. Trim the stalks to 12 inch above the bulb, and trim the roots close to the bulb. Rub off the outer layer of skin around the bulb, and use a nailbrush or toothbrush to gently remove any soil clinging to the base. Try not to remove more wrapper layers than you have to. Store the bulbs in a well-ventilated, dark spot. If you want, set aside the biggest bulbs for planting in the fall.


 

And then there is this article on common garlic-planting mistakes:

 

How to plant garlic: Three mistakes to avoid

Grow garlic
iStockphoto®/MamaMiaPL
 

I love garlic. But failed completely the first time I tried to plant garlic.

After attending a garlic festival sponsored by the Pikes Peak Urban Gardens, I stopped at a local nursery, bought garlic bulbs, and without much knowledge at hand, went home and planted my garlic. I was so disappointed the following August when very few of the plants came up and the bulbs themselves were puny.

The next year I had a bumper crop of nice-sized garlic. I was delighted. After all, garlic is not only a healthy addition to any diet, but a key ingredient in many Mediterranean dishes.

Here are three top mistakes to avoid when planting your garlic.

1. Neglecting your soil

Garlic loves loose, loamy soils that are rich in nitrogen. Here's my first mistake, I have clay soil that compacts and restricts root development and bulb growth. Be sure to add compost or manure along with a rich topsoil to prepare your garden bed. Because my soil is clay, I also add some sand to discourage soil compaction during the growing season.

Also, if you intend on planting garlic every year, be sure to rotate your crop. The garlic will soon deplete the nitrogen. During the growing season, use a 10-10-10 fertilizer to help keep your garlic well nourished and growing to it's full potential. Be sure your soil is well drained. If amending your soil is more work than you want to tackle, you can plant your garlic in containers and grow them indoors.

2. Being stingy with your water

Water your garlic frequently, especially after you first plant them. Don't over water, but keep the soil moist. If you live in an arid climate, you will find a good layer of mulch will help retain moisture and protect the bulbs from any severe cold snaps. I use between 4 - 6 inches of mulch depending on the plant's location in my garden.

You will either plant your bulbs in fall (September 15th - October 15), or wait until spring. I always recommend planting in the fall, but you have to be vigilant about monitoring the moisture. If you have not had much snow or rainfall, you will need to do winter watering to ensure the plants get the moisture they need to form a good root system.

You can reduce watering when the weather begins to warm and new sprouts emerge, but you must ensure they do not dry out. Watering is particularly crucial when growing the garlic in containers. It is important to check the soil moisture regularly.

3. Plant garlic in the shade

Garlic loves the sun. The first year I planted garlic, I planted them too close to a large tree. They only got about 4 hours of full sun each day, which produced smaller and slightly deformed garlic. The optimum is 6 - 8 hours of full sun.

As garlic is a southern European native, they love nice sunny locations. Because of my arid location, with frequent water restrictions, I pull the mulch away from the sprout to form a 4 - 6" circle, but leave the mulch on the ground to help keep the root system moist during the heat of the day. In more humid locations you may not find this necessary. Your sun-loving garlic will produce larger and better-formed bulbs to show its appreciation of the sunshine.

Plant each clove in your row approximately 6" apart, and space the rows about a foot apart. Overcrowding your garlic plants can also result in smaller and even deformed bulbs.

 
 
Blog Entry CommentsComments: 9 (Last: Lori · 11/1/14 12:00 PM)

I have terrible nutrient-poor clay soil here. I've been amending it for a couple of years now, but it's still pretty bad. I'm actually considering tearing it out of our raised beds and replacing it with new soil. I might try making up some of my own potting mix, following a recipe I found here:

 

To make your own mix, combine the following in a wheelbarrow:

 

2 five gallon buckets full of sphagnum peat moss
1 five gallon bucket full of rotted horse manure, compost, or worm castings
1 and 1/2 cup garden lime
1 large coffee can full of perlite
1 handful of Epsom salts

 

Here's a vid:

 
 
Blog Entry CommentsComments: 1 (Last: Slaz · 6/22/14 8:37 AM)

Companion planting is the practice of combining plants together which help each other in some way. Some plants make other plants taste better (such as basil, which makes tomatoes more flavorful) or repel insects (onions with insects that prey on cabbage) or attract insects (nasturtiums, which are more attractive to predatory insects than most plants, so attract away harmful pests).

 

Companion planting also includes which plants to not plant together. Basil may kill rosemary, for example.

 

There are a ton of useful sites online. This is one of my favorites, because it spends more time explaining why to plant certain things together.

 

 
 
Blog Entry CommentsComments: 2 (Last: Slaz · 3/8/14 11:09 AM)
 
 
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